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Expert Advice
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Starting A
Saltwater Tank
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Setting Up The Marine System
The larger the tank, the easier it is to maintain. We do not recommend a
tank under 30 gallons in size.
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Water temperature - This should be set between 78-80 degrees F. A
submersible heater is preferable to a standard heater because salt can
not get into the heater and cause it to stick in the on position.
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Specific gravity - Should be kept between 1.020 - 1.021, except for
red sea fish and reefs which should be at 1.023 - 1.024.
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Filtration - There are two types of filters needed for salt
water. A power filter (mechanical filter) in conjunction with a wet-dry
filter (biological filter), is the best combination. The mechanical
filter's purpose is to remove particulate matter. Magnetically coupled
cartridge filters do not work as well as conventional direct drive
outside filters or canister filters. The magnetically driven filters do
not cross circulate the water nor do the thin pads supply as good
filtration. Magnetically coupled canister filters do work well because
they pull water from one side of the tank and return it to the other
side, as well as passing the water through a thick layer of filter
materials.
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A wet-dry (trickle) filter
should be used for biological filtration. This advanced system provides some
mechanical and excellent biological filtration in one. With this system,
superior water quality can be achieved in the tank. As a direct result,
wet-dry filters require less maintenance time and maintenance expense. A
protein skimmer highly improves the water quality coming from the wet-dry
filter.
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How To Cycle The Salt Water
Tank
Fish create waste. This waste produces ammonia, which is toxic to the
fish at the pH level maintained in the marine tanks. This is why a
biological filter is needed. Bacterium grow in the wet-dry filter to
break down the ammonia into nitrite. Once this occurs, a second type of
bacterium break down the nitrite into nitrate, which is relatively
harmless to the fish at low concentrations. To create this cycle, hardy
fish (usually inexpensive damsels) are added to the tank to start the
ammonia cycle. Triggers, groupers and eels are hardy fish and can be used
to cycle the tank. To begin, allow the tank to run for two days, then
start adding the starter fish. One inch of fish should be added for every
five gallons of water. (Slightly less with eels and triggers.) The other
option is to use ammonium chloride rather than fish to create "the
cycle" chemically.
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Cycling a tank generally takes
six to ten weeks (four to six weeks chemically). This may be sped up by
adding live rock or live sand to the tank. This does not replace the
cycle, it merely speeds it up.
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Adding fish - Once the ammonia and nitrite levels are at zero,
other fish may be added. A general rule of thumb is a one inch fish per
three gallons of water, a two inch fish per five gallons or a four inch
fish per ten gallons. Unlike freshwater, most marine fish do well in
singles. If you wish to put two or more fish of the same type or fish
with similar patterns and colors, add them at the same time or the
already established fish will often kill the new fish. This holds
especially true with clown fish, damsells, angels and tangs.) Fish should
be added in small groups so as not to disrupt the ammonia level. By adding
more than one new fish at a time, they will be less likely to be picked
on.
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Feeding - Ideally marine fish should be fed twice a day. Live
food are not needed for most marines. A combination of frozen brine
shrimp and formula II (an algae based food to provide vegetables) will
do. Adding other frozen foods for a variety in their diet is also a good
idea, as well as romaine lettuce or spinach. Dry foods may be used
sparingly with hardy marine fish.
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Water Changes - With standard filtration (power outside filter and
wet-dry filter) 50% water should be changed monthly in a well stocked
system.
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Medication - The only medication we recommend adding directly to
an established tank is copper sulfate or copper citrate. Antibiotics,
sulfa drugs, or dyes may destroy the filter bed directly or indirectly.
Use these in a quarantine tank only.
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Setting Up &
Maintaining A Tropical Fish Aquarium
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The following are some guidelines,
important points and maintenance, to know for your freshwater fish
aquarium. We have described in some detail why these points are important
to you and your fish. We hope this information is helpful to you. Also
please note - we do not recommend undergravel filters for freshwater
except to augment a good power filter system.
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The Summary
- Before setting up the aquarium, be certain it is
on a level and sturdy surface.
- Rinse natural gravel and carbon before use.
- Add Amquel or other chloramine remover.
- Temperature - set between 76 and 78 degrees.
- pH - set between 6.5 and 6.7, and test once a
week.
- Aquarium salt - 1 tablespoon for every 5 gallons
of water.
- Feeding - alternate between flake food (Tetramin)
and frozen brine shrimp.
- Change 40-50 percent of the water in the tank
once a month.
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The Details
- When the aquarium is full of water, it weighs
approximately ten pounds per gallon. Therefore do not place it on an
unstable or unlevel surface. If you do, it could either crack or end
up on the floor.
- During shipping, the carton pieces rub together
creating dust, which must be rinsed thoroughly to avoid a cloudy
fish tank.
- Place water in the tank and add chloramine
remover.
- All tropical fish require warm water, only
goldfish can live in cooler water.
- There are many reasons why the pH should be set
at about 6.6. A couple important reasons are that pathogenic
bacteria grow slower in acid water, and ammonia is much less toxic
in acid water.
- Many fish have come from water that has a small
salt content; also , fish loose body salt through their gills in
soft water when no salt or minerals are present. Salt does not
evaporate, so it should be added only once and when doing water
changes.
- Many fish are carnivorous in nature, eating fly
larva, worms and crustaceans. Frozen brine shrimp, because of it's
bulky nature, replaces the natual meaty foods, therefore reducing
the tendency to pick on other fish. To use frozen brine, a small
piece of shrimp should be broken off according to the number of
fish. This piece should be placed in a glass of warm water to thaw
out. Then pour the water and shrimp through a net so the dirty water
can go down the drain and you are left with clean shrimp to put in
the tank.
- Last is maintenance. Water changes are important
because as water evaporates it leaves behind minerals. As new water
is added so are minerals. Eventually, this will make the water hard
and cause a build up of non-biodegradable wastes. Again remove
chloramines, add salt and adjust pH before adding water to the tank.
At this time the filter material and the carbon (which stays active
for 4-6 weeks) can be changed. Also this is a good time to stir up
the gravel.
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Tropic Isle Aquarium
4 Pierce Street
Framingham, Ma 01701
phone: (508) 875-5303
fax: (508) 872-1916
email: tropicisleaquarium@verizon.net
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Business Hours
Monday-Saturday: 11am - 9pm
Sunday: 11am - 6pm
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